Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Installation Instructions' title='Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Installation Instructions' />The Sinister Diesel Regulated Fuel Return Kit is constructed of CNC machined billet aluminum parts and steel braided fuel lines with nickel plated fittings.DSMs Still Alive and Kicking.So I got chastised the other day for not getting a DSM on the schedule quick enough.The customer implied that maybe we were too busy.THE choice for winning teams.Auto Meter gauges get you the information you need about your cars performance.Find your right gauge now.Superduty Pillar Gauge Pod Installation.IMPORTANT Before starting installation, please be sure that all items which were supplied with the kit are accounted for.Note These instructions are to be used in conjunction with the instructions supplied with your gauges.This instruction sheet will guide you through the process of installing a pillar mounted gauge pod.For a simple splice connection look at figure 2.This basic type of splice can be used almost exclusively when hooking up your wiring.Download PDFRecommended Items 5 1.Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Installation Instructions' title='Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Installation Instructions' />Titan Part 7030210 Our Part TFT7030210 Stock Tank 34 Gallons Titan Tank 56 Gallons Warranty 5 Year, 50,000 Miles Installation Instructions.Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Installation Instructions' title='Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge Installation Instructions' />Automotive wire White for lighting5 1.Automotive wire Black for ground6 1.Automotive wire Red for power1.Automotive wire Blue for TransWater Temp1ATM Mini Fuse Tap Bussman PN BP HHH RP or equivalentCorrugated wire loom to protect wiresMisc.Female Spade, Ring Post, Butt, and Instant TapMisc.Electrical Tape. Zip Ties.Riffraff Diesel AIH Tapped Fitting.NPT to barbed adapter or compression fitting used with the AIH Tapped Fitting vacuum Tee fitting if not using Riffraff Diesel AIH FittingHigh Temp Copper Anti Seize compoundaries depending on gauges and installation method.Any color can be used.Recommended Tools Assorted sockets and wrenches metric and sae Assorted screwdrivers common and Phillips head Trim removal tool Drill Drill Bits 31.Wire crimper, Wire strippers, Wire cutters.NPT tap and handle Solder Iron and Solder OptionalInstallation Instructions Warning Before doing any electrical work the batteries should be disconnected.First thing to do when starting the install is to organize your components and determine what order you are going to install your gauges in your pod.Keep in mind that your pyrometer EGT is the most critical reading followed by transmission temperature, then boost.Install the most critical gauge in the spot that is easiest to see for you.After you have determined which order the gauges will be installed you can now determine the wire routing for your installation.With the gauge pod on your workbench, you can begin to build a wire harness for your lighting circuit.If using Autometer gauges you will find the bulb holders use a white wire for power and a black wire for ground.Allow the bulb connectors to extend out of the gauge pod a few inches.This will allow easy access to change the bulbs if they burn out.Once you have the wire connectors positioned you can use some 1.You can use butt connectors or instant tap connectors to tie the white lighting power wires together.This wire will be routed into the dash and to the light controls switch.Now you need to do the same for the lighting circuit ground wires as well as the ground for the pyrometer, temperature gauge, and GPR LED ground.These can be all tied together as one harness.This wire will be routed down to the kick panel by the emergency brake pedal and attached to a factory ground bolt.If you have a grab handle on your pillar post you will need to remove it to install the pillar mount.Test fit the pillar pod onto the factory plastic pillar surround.Make sure it fits correctly.The pillar pod will need to be inserted from the top down to fit correctly, the bottom of the pillar mount should slide into the dash opening.The top edge of the pod should end at the top edge of the pillar surround.After you check the fit, you can remove the factory pillar surround from the truck.To remove the pillar surround, you need to pull the rubber door seal from the frame.It should come right off as it is only pressed on.Now you can pull the pillar surround down and to the rear to disengage the spring clips that hold it in position.The pillar surround will need to be drilled in order to make room for the wires and tubing to be routed.If you had a grab handle you may be able to use the cutouts from the handle to route the wires.If you did not have a grab handle you will need to provide a hole to route the wires.A good tool to use for drilling the plastic is a stepped drill bit like a Unibit.This will make a very clean hole in the plastic with very little effort.Make the hole large enough to provide ample room for all the wires.You can also drill multiple holes that are smaller if you choose to route the wires separately.Choose a location on the factory surround that is not enforced on the inner surface.Take the factory pillar and the gauge pod and align the top edges.Use some masking tape to hold the gauge pod onto the pillar so you can locate and drill the holes for the plastic push in rivets, this will require a 31.Locate the push in rivet holes on the sides of the pod evenly spaced.Figure 41. 2 Remove the gauge pod from the pillar surround and remove any debris from the drilling.You can now route the wires for the pyrometer, transmission temperature probe, and GPR LED if installed along with the tubing for the boost gauge in the gauge pod.You will need to route a red power wire from the pyrometer and temperaturepressure gauges to the fuse panel.Also make sure you install a black ground wire for the pyrometer and temperaturepressure gauges.Keep these in the radius of the gauge pod to ensure ample room when the gauge pod is installed to the pillar surround.Once you have all of the wires routed into the pod and have left enough room for the gauge to be removed, you can secure the wires with small zip ties.Now install the gauge pod onto the pillar surround with the push in rivets.Remove the fuse panellower dash access panel, by twisting the 4 retaining screws counter clockwise 9.Remove the dash side vent panel, this can be done by slipping a small common screwdriver in the aft edge and applying an outward force.Remove the light control switch panel.This can be done by slipping a small common screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the switch panel.Then apply and push the screwdriver down to disengage the retainer clips.A1. 9 Remove the drivers side kick panel from behind the emergency brake pedal area.There is a large plastic push rivet that needs to be removed using a interior trim removal tool.A2. 0 You will now have access to route the wires down to the floor area.The white 1. 8 gauge lighting wire will be routed to the light switch opening.It will be tied to the light blue wire with the red trace on the smaller connector.You can use your choice of methods to splice this wire.Instant tap or T Tap connections work well here.Locate the black ground wire and route it to a factory ground located on the side panel. Cs4 Adobe Premiere Serial Number here. Install a ring terminal that is the correct size to the ground you chose.Remove the cover from the fuse box, find a circuit that is powered with the ignition on radio circuit works well for this.Remove the fuse and install a fuse tap into that location.Install the fuse removed from the panel and another fuse 3 amp is all that is needed for the gauge power.As alternate for the power you can use the Auxiliary Idle Control connector that is attached to the forward side of the lower dash cross member.Held in place with a plastic push rivet clip Just tap into the red wire with the yellow trace.You will have to make a small trim in the cover for the fuse box cover to allow the wire to pass through for the gauge power.You may also have to trim the inner webbing out at the fuse tap location.If you have an automatic truck, you can use the clutch master cylinder cutout as a wire penetration point.Since there is not a clutch master cylinder there is a plastic plug installed on the firewall that makes a great pass through for your wires.If you have a manual truck, you can drill a hole in the firewall near the factory penetrations and install a grommet to protect the wirestubing.Route the pyrometer probe wire, the transmission temperature wire, and the boost tubing through the firewall to the engine compartment.The pyrometer wiring cannot be cut, so route enough wire to the drivers side manifold near the aft end.Coil the remaining length inside the cab and tie to the dash structure to ensure it remains clear of your feet or pedal controls.The transmission sender wire can be routed along the inside of the frame rail to the drivers side of the transmission near the shift mechanism.The boost tube should be routed along the cowl panel and to the MAP line or intake spider.At the transmission, locate and remove the pressure test port plug on the drivers side, just forward of the shift linkage.
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